How to antichess960 correctly? < Beginner guide >

List of topics

1. Trivia
2. Introduction to Anti960
3. Opponent weaknesses; easy for exploitation diagonals
4. Opponent weaknesses; easy for exploitation verticals
5. Your gameplay; weaknesses managing
6. Your gameplay; pawn pushes
7. Tips; long-range pieces use
8. Tips; short-range pieces use
9. Tips; transferring to the endgame
10. Conclusion

Trivia

After being finished playing The Frogs vs. Cats Anti960 team battle on LiAntichess.org

http://liantichess.org/tournament/vdnNEaHu

I analyzed some of my games and found that ~1500 rated players (equivalent to ~2050 on Lichess Anti I believe) ended up with the losing disadvantages of -4 or worse too often when leaving the "opening phase" when played against stronger players.

In this game which started via: < 1.e3 h5 2.Bxh5 Qxh5 >
The position evaluation at that moment was +3.6 advantage, several moves later I ended up in the position which was #14 and converted it flawlessly.
So I decided to write this guide for those players, who feel like playing uncomfortable positions after the first 5-7 moves in this variant, for them to not end up in such disadvantageous positions ever again*.

Introduction to Anti960

Antichess960 is the variant which correlates your skills in both chess960 and Anti, albeit Anti holds greater value in this case. That's why today I will try to correlate the strategic points of Anti with the initial position of Anti960 to guide newcomers through the so-called "opening phase" of Anti960. The middlegame and especially the endgame phases of the game are pretty much the same for Anti and Anti960 at this level (generally too, but with some details to speak about) so I believe that the opening phase is the only thing between noobies and good players of this symbiotic variant.

IMPORTANT NOTE: try to attack when playing white, using maximum out of given 1st move privilege and play defence, when playing black, to negate every attacking opportunity of your opponent, as in almost 70% of the positions white can end up in the position with over +10 advantage, while such and advantage for black is achievable only in 6.3% of the positions.

Opponent Weaknesses

This chapter, as well as the other ones, consists of a few main subtopics for you to learn and master so that your performance level will be on par with your anti rating.

>> Easy for exploitation diagonals

On this level of play controlling all of the diagonals in the first few moves may be too hard and ineffective timewise, so try to concentrate mainly on "what will happen if your opponent opens 'this' diagonal; would this yield him an immediate advantage?". If the answer to the question is easy "Yes", then, try to prevent it from happening via opening this diagonal further or by other means, so that when it becomes opened, your opponent's Bishops or Queen will lose at least one tempo for you to spare, simultaneously protecting you from some zwiches.

The example is not of the best quality, but it is what it is.

If you can't possibly un-defend your diagonal, but your opponent seemingly won't win immediately by exploiting it, then you may ignore it.

Often times on the pre-2100 level you can't possibly calculate all of the zwiches and other diagonal-related stuff from the pre-game timer time or even the first 30 secs of the opening, making your position pretty safe. Nevertheless, it is only true if the above rules are followed.

>> Easy for exploitation verticals

Verticals are not of any danger in the Anti960 on any level if, and only if the vertical could be easily opened and there are no pieces defending it except the Rook and some piece that could sacrifice itself on the 2nd or 7th rank.

In the example above, opening up your vertical would lead to a devastating lose of advantage if done immediately. @cFlour, however, used his next tempo to ensure that if vertical would open now or later it would lead to #13 making the pin on the Bishop even stronger.

This is true (verticals being relatively safe) due to 960 positions having overdefended squares everywhere so almost every time it is not feasible to strategize around this weakness. Also, do not forget that the positions are symmetrical, so the winning zwiches must be several moves along, which you prevented via the previous chapter's help already.

In this example, @cFlour and I completely ignored the a-file rooks being opened up as there was absolutely no threat of them being exploited (No zwiches or 1/2nd or 7/8th rank sacrifices available).

Your gameplay

>> Weaknesses managment

It is no secret that your opponents' weaknesses are in your position too. So, it is sometimes helpful to consider: "How would my opponent would control his own weaknesses?" and try to mirror this type of thought on your own position. I personally find this way of analyzing much easier, as it is more natural for me to consider my opponent's plan.

NOTE: This way you also can build your strategy around some of your opponent's weakness that he couldn't control as easily, when you try to exploit it.

That being said, it is not the best approach to the position when playing as black, as you will most certainly play defence and try to survive the opening, while white can ignore some threats and create others to your position using 1st move privilege; then what should you do? Open up these weaknesses!
- But wait, isn't it a bad thing to do?
Indeed it is, but only if your opponent finds out how to punish it. As long as it is not an obvious mistake, you may open it up and try to bluff your way out. This method sometimes works even at higher levels if done correctly.

But BE CAUTIOUS! It only works if your opponent is committed to attacking and can't immediately turn your Bishop or Queen into a loose cannon, as they ought to attack already. OR if they have some skill issues in converting their win.**

>> Pawn Pushes

Arguably the most important chapter of them all. The pawn pushes are the essential parts of every chess game (except the "Racing Kings" variant) and Anti960 isn't an exception to this rule. While some of those pushes may create attacking or counterattacking opportunities, others may strengthen your position. The general rule of thumb here is to open as many diagonals when playing as white and try to close every one of your weaknesses when playing as black.

Here is the example where I blocked my Bishop on a1 (the most problematic bishop possible) even further to ensure that it won't be a problem even if I blunder one layer of protection on it getting broken in the process of the game, as well as giving some possible squares to another Bishop and Knight.

The lesson here: Try to play your pawns in the safest way possible. This way you will not lose because of silly mistakes and will win on your opponent's blunders pretty often.

NEVER push your pawns 2 squares as it is lamost always losing for you on the spot.
ALWAYS be aware of the Bishops in the corners of the board as they are always hard to deal with.

Tips

>> Long-range pieces use

• Try not to open them up in the middle game if not completely necessary. These pieces are easy to lure to one's camp to get yourself a really pleasant position. In the endgame you shall do the complete opposite if you do not, then there is a high probability of you ending up in the zugzwang.
• Do not block your opponent's diagonal with the pawn if you don't have the follow-up. The Bishop to pawn trade rarely favours the pawn-sacrificing side. Try to trade off some of your weak pieces or use your tempo to cover your weaknesses
• The anti960 is a pieces game, not pawns'; always try to develop in a safe way.

>> Short-range pieces use

• 2nd or 7th rank Knights are always neutral and silent moves to return your tempo to your opponent if you have no idea what to do next.
• These pieces could be used to block dangerous verticals and diagonals, but do not forget that blocking your pieces is only a temporary solution; pins are your great weakness.
• No need to move the king if not absolutely necessary.
• Moving the Knight on your first 2-3 moves is a great commitment; choose your moves wisely.
• If there is an opportunity, do this:

This way you not only develop your Knight(s) safely but also create capture chain possibilities for entering the counterplay territory.

>> Transferring to the endgame

The fewer pins you have - the better; Isolated pieces you shall free, but do so deliberately.

Conclusion

Anti960 is the variant which had only one sole purpose - to make theory and its memorization not a viable option for the players, yet here I am, currently #2 placed Antichess960 player on LiAntichess.org who is there only because of creating this some sort of theory.
I tried to make this blog as beginner friendly as possible, however, If you happen to have some questions or want to delve deeper into the topic you may ask me in the related Forum or directly in my DM's (not recommended). Also, I am working on an Intermediate level Guide for Anti 960 too, albeit it will be in the form of a Study, as the Blog is too energy-consuming.

Huge thx to @ZendiScar and @cFlour as I was inspired by their blogs to start writing ones of my own.

* - The blog is primarily for newer players of anti960 with some background in Anti, meaning even 1600 or 2300+ players may easily learn something new and meaningful from this blog.
** - No offence to @UglySwede 's case, he made the most sensible moves in the position.